Friday, 9 August 2013

Europe #3

Germany - so far
Now we move into Germany, to Hemer, to meet a Angelika, a cousin of Ray my brother-in-law. When they learnt that the next place we were heading to was to try to get our rooflight cover replaced, Martin got on the phone. We had to stay to the next day to phone back a place nearby who thought they may be able to get one. Next day, yes we can get one, it' s coming from Nuremburg, be here in the morning - so we had two nights in their driveway. What a fabulous couple. We couldn't have got it fixed without Martin's engineering knowledge and of course the language. While here they took us to an IKEA store - have you ever been to an IKEA store????? We spent about 5 hours there - it is a-maz-ing!!!!!!!!!!! Might be just as well we don't have one in NZ.... I also checked out some of Angelika's cook books and have more things to try!! We were very sad to leave here.


After a day or two we arrived at our friends Walter and Karin about 40 minutes south of Cologne. We met Walter and Karin in Te Anau camping ground kitchen in 1987 and have kept in touch since. They have stayed with us since in Rangiora, they love New Zealand. We had only planned on staying a couple of days but they said they wanted us to stay for my birthday. I was hoping they had forgotten as usually they so spoil us and not allow us to pay for anything that it gets embarrassing. However they allowed us to this time so we were happy. They are a few years older than us and they both have had health issues in the past year so it was great to spend time with them. One day they took us to a French market where there was a little lavender and heaps of food stalls. We tried another new food - kartofelwafel (potato waffle) with applesauce (me) or salmon, (Ken and Karin) or quark and herbs (Walter). The daughter of friends of Walter and Karin, Steffi, came one afternoon with her partner Wolfi and their toddler, Paulina. Steffi and Melanie used to be penpals and Steffi has stayed wth us in the past. Steffi is a doctor, anaethetist and is now training to specialise in pain relief but doesn't know how to handle her two year old's tantrums! I told her to walk away when she has a paddy - wonder if she's tried it! Somehow I doubt it. One evening Walter took us to a restaurant with a view - and boy what a view! Food was good too. It was a vineyard and berry farm. For my birthday we went to a Roman Villa at Ahrweiler. It was found when they were digging to make a new piece of road. We have been to a few roman villas but this one was certainly the most impressive. Most of it is still there up to about four feet above ground. Lunch was at another vineyard in a building that looked as though it had been designed by Hunderwasser or Gaudi - it was so unusual. Got rained out of our first seat. When a storm hits it comes in a hurry! Poor waitress got soaked rescuing everything off the outside tables. Walter and Karin have a beautiful garden and I got my hands dirty pulling a few weeds and trimming the lavender bushes when I was allowed! In the evening when we sit out on the terrace Walter lights the candles that are around the garden and it is just like fairy land. When we left them it was very very sad, lots of tears from all of us. They are a very special couple and we probably won't see them again - not on this earth anyway.

We just wanted a couple of quiet days to lick our emotional wounds so headed to a camp at Limburg. Nice old town to wander around, lots of cafes, bars and eateries. Sat and had an icecream and orange drink.

Decided to 'do' the Romantische Strasse (the Romantic Road) starting with Wurzburg. On the way we stopped at a town near Frankfurt to meet more people we didn't know but had heard about for years that Jenny and Ray and my parents had met many years previously at Totaranui. Tina was helping with the organisation for her parents 50th wedding celebrations so I only got to speak to her but we met Ralf her husband as he works from home as a financial advisor. He showed me some of Tina's patchwork quilts - made me want to get home and get started on patchwork!! Ralf also has bees and he showed us some of what he is doing in the back yard - the rest of the hives are at his allotment. Stayed at a village winery aire in Randersacker from where we planned to get a bus into Wurzburg the next day. Checked out the bus timetable and a bus supposedly didn't go till nearly 1pm. So we'll walk around the village and move on. Except in the morning we saw buses labeled for Wurzburg!! Grrrr..... ah well.....

On to Rothenburg ob der Tauber - easy to find parking for a change and only a few minutes walk into the city. All these old cities were walled and some of them the walls are still pretty much in tact and can be walked around. You get much more interesting views from above! On the way back to the van we saw a motorbike and sidecar that Ken reckoned was military. Stopped and talked to the guy and no, it wasn't military, it was Russian, made to look like military. He had broken down and had a ways to go to get home. After we'd moved on we looked back and he had his hands spread in exasperation!! but he had gone by the time we were on our way so either he got it going or he pushed it to a nearby bike workshop! When we said where we were from he said, like most do, ah beautiful country, green.... nature.... and we said, as we usually do, yes but you have such wonderful history. He responded in a way that has never been said to us before and that we hadn't thought of - you too have history, it's just not so long! I thought, that is so true but never thought of it like that before!!

A couple of towns next day - Dinkelsbuhl, another town with an invisible (read, impossible to find) tourist info centre, then to Nordlingen where we came upon by accident, a really good stellplatz. On the way we stopped and parked in the shelter of a closed supermarket building while a VERY violent thunder and lightening and rain storm went overhead. The thunder and lightening were amazing! When we were about to leave Nordlingen the next day I noticed the people in front of us (with a GB plate) had a cat on a lead. I went and talked to them. Usually people have a dog - at least one - but I'd never seen a cat in a van before. Got chatting about places to go and see etc and we've now decided not to go to Prague because if we don't have the proper paper work we could face up to a Euro1000 fine (about NZD2000) plus accommodation costs until you can draw the funds you need and the cost of impounding the vehicle (this happened to friends of theirs). Apart from the fact it's an awfully long drive, same with going to Auchwitz - we're now going to Dachau. Also not going to Croatia to the Plitvice regional park, also a long drive just to see some lovely lakes!

We stopped at the stellplatz in Donauworth, walked into town and decided to move on - nothing much there. Off to Rain and another good stellplatz. This town has a Lutheran church with a Bible garden. We both had the best sleep either of us has had for ages. Walked into the town, finally found the tourist information in the lobby of the Rathaus, only to be told the Bible garden is permanently closed! Walked up one side and down the other and into the Dehrner garden centre which also had the most beautiful gardens (free) and a glockenspiel which at 12.15 played Beethoven's 9th symphony. We decided to stay in Rain another night. It's only the cost of the power and is very quiet. Later in the afternoon another campervan man came and said there was a bad storm coming from Stuttgart and we should move away from under the trees if it comes. A bit later it did - another fantastic thunder and lightening storm with rain but not as much as the other day. (yes we had moved) Have never seen lightening like it - sky to ground stuff and lighting up the whole sky stuff!! The man next door came to the window and asked if he could come in as he was getting eating by mozzies. A little later his wife also came to the window with two glasses and their bottle of wine. They were from Darmstadt just south of Frankfurt, both teachers. We had a most ingteresting evening making more new friends.

We moved on next day to Dachau and the concentration camp memorial. So much to take in. Even though we've seen so much on television and read so much it only really hits you when you are actually at the place where it all happened. And Dachau was one of the more lenient camps, if it could be put that way.

Drove to have a night in a stellplatz at a big Hymer agency (they're a big German mobile home outfit) but the picture in the book didn't match the reality. Ken went walkabout to see if we'd missed something and while he was away the man came to empty out the electricity money box so I asked him and it seems that the stellplatz has moved from the other side of the road. There are now less sites, the water, toilets and waste disposal places are still over the road at the old site - so not so convenient as it would have been. Went to hook up and a boy next door said 'kaputt' - we knew what that meant even without translation! So we thought ok, a night on the gas, but then Ken decided to go walkabout again and found another pozzie so we moved - just after I'd opened all the windows and was drinking my wine, which I put on the bench while I closed the windows and then he took off and so did my glass!! It's ok, it didn't break!

Continuing further down the Romantische Strasse we went through several more beautiful little villages. One had a little church on a hill called St Ursula's. Man made hill and it was closed! The same story of so many places not living up to expectations and advertising.

We came to Schwangau, home of Neuschwanstein and Hohenshcwangau castles. Snow White's castle at Disneyland is modeled on Neuschwanstein. Both were only built in the 1800's, by father and son. The plan was to see them and maybe take a cable car up the mountain - BUT - after asking the lady in the bank if we could park in their carpark overnight - 'no, please do not' - she gave us 2 suggestions of camps, as, unlike other Romantische Strasse towns there was no mobile home parking, we went to Burren a couple of kms away. We managed to wiggle into one of two remaining places. And then in the night the rain started...... As I write this in the evening it still hasn't stopped. We'll need a boat to get away from here at this rate! Talking of boats, we're on the shores of the 5th largest lake in Bavaria - the Forggensee Lake at 793m above sea level, and at times today the cloud was right down to the lake surface.

But I got a load of washing done - tricky when you can't read the intructions! Asked the cleaning girl who asked her boyfriend and then the maintenance man ame along and I asked him and he got me sorted even though he doesn't speak English! He pulled out a bit of washing to see what it was - ie acrylic/woolen... pointed to the work acrylik on the dial and I nodded, he turned the dial, pointed to put the coins in, but I had a E2 and a E1 and it only takes E1's. Took me out in the hall where there was a machine where he instructed me to put in my E3 and out popped a token which I had to put in the washing mchine instead of coins and she was away!! Phew......... Then the drier was another story!! No-one about so I put the dial where I thought it should be, 20 minutes, but knowing that when I used my daughter-in-law's drier it took 50 minutes I was a bit concerned. After the due time went back and of course the washing was still wet. asked a lady in the kitchen if she spoke English - no. So went to the office and one of the ladies came and showed me which number I should have dialled. told her I'd have to get more money but she went away and came back with a token - and a while later I had beautifully dry washing!! I now know which word I need to look for - can't remember it but I'm sure I'll recognise it when I see it!! Though probably not a lot of use as we'll be leaving Germany within the next few days!

So we got all laptops, batteries, mp3 .... charged, washing done, rested, so rain or not tomorrow we're going to see those blimin' castles!!

I must say, that as we were driving into this valley I said to Ken I feel like I'm in 'The Sound of Music' - the hills and trees and the log houses and little mountain huts - where's Heidi??

The last few weeks have been so very very hot, making sleep difficult as well as the walking around the towns, so although the rain is a nuisance it has cooled things down. There are so many fields of crops around though, ready to harvest, that I'm sure there are lots of annoyed farmers as well.

We've met such interesting people along the way, most of whom we will never meet again, some who we will keep in touch with. But for me, so far, it is the people who have really made the trip.

Thursday, 25 July 2013

Europe #2

Belgium
We spent three nights in a camp at Ypres (aka Iper). We biked into the town in minutes. The second day while I was attempting to get my leg through my bike I suddenly found myself on the cobbles on my back (in front of luch time hordes of people!!) with the bike on top of me. One couple stopped and I said I'm ok, and as they moved off I muttered to Ken, I want to cry!! Managed to get on properly the next time and get back to 'home' where I did have a cry and check out my scrapes and bruises! The main one being that I appeared to have twisted my right leg below the knee so it was painful for weeks, especially walking downhill or down stairs or if I knelt on it! Guess I was was very fortunate I didn't break anything!

Every night since 1928 there has been a Last Post ceremony at 8pm at the Menin Gate, a very big structure engraved with many many names of fallen soldiers. The first night we got there just before 8pm - couldn't see a thing, so next night we were there 7.30pm and we still had to fight for our pozzie! When the official party came out Ken said, that's a New Zealand soldier! He placed a beautiful wreath. The man who said the 'they will not grow old as we grow old....' piece was also a New Zealander. So after the ceremony was finished we went over to speak to the soldier. He was being photographed by an Australian woman saying how wonderful to see one of 'their men' there. I said, no he's not, he's one of ours!! Stupid woman!! Anyway he is Lt Colonel Mike Beale, NZ Defence Attache to Belgium based in London. (I googled him and his wife is a squadron leader). I asked him who the thers in the party were and he introduced us to a woman, Paula Wilson, the NZ ambassador to Belgium!!! (also to Luxembourg and Romania, also deputy head commissioner). Chatted to her and she introduced us to Andrew Matheson, the man who said the 'grow old' piece. He is in charge of the NZ branch of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) WW1 centenary commemmorations. As we were turning away we discussed finding the Maori soldiers names that we had been told were on a wall. Another man spoke and told us where they were. He too worked in the embassy - he said as a sort of secretary. I said, 'oh a gopher' and he said yes something like that. As we were leaving him he gave us his card - David Dewar 2nd secretary defence and economics!!!! Gopher??? oops....... It was a very special evening. There is an official photgrapher there every night and puts photos on a website called www.last-post.be (I think) 10th July was the evening we were there and if you know where to look you can see Ken and I in a crowd picture! All these important people were there because on the monday there had been three 'boys' reinterred at Tyn Cot cemetary after their remains had been found by a farmer in his field - happens quite regularly I gather. These ones were South African. We went to Tyn Cot the next day. It was so called by British soldiers from the Tyn area and 'cot' is a term used for cottage. The cemetery is massive!


Bruges was next on the agenda. Parked the van on the ring road and cycled in. A very pretty town. Had a canal ride. Every other shop sells lace - handmade of course! - not! But still beautiful - and yes I did buy a tiny piece.

Anything we buy has to be tiny or lightweight - preferably both - as we don't know what space/weight we will have to carry home. We are going to leave stuff boxed up in the van when it's shipped home but there's lots of extra special things we won't trust to leave in it.

The next few days we had with friends at Herenthouth sleeping in their driveway. One day they took us to the site of the Battle of Waterloo. We climbed 256 steps (I think). They had rails both sides so I hung onto them and sort of swung my right leg coming down each step. For a bite to eat we had another interesting food - croque monsieur. Toasted ham and cheese sandwich! Croque Madame has an egg on top!

Paula took me to her hairdresser. I asked for short but not hedgehog and I don't like the tops of my ears showing - something got lost in the translation because I got a hedgehog cut and my ears stick out!! Ah well - it'll grow - at least it'll be a bit cooler!

Monday, 15 July 2013

Europe #1 (25 June - 9 August)

France
Not a good start to Europe - couldn't find the 'Passion' site. These are camping sites that are free for 24 hours to self contained motor homes. sometimes on a farm, a vineyard, cheese maker etc. You are not obliged to buy their produce but if you are going to buy cheese, wine etc then you may as well from the grower.


When we finally found this one at Honfleur it wasn't at Honfleur - it was several kms out. there are no GPS co-ordinates and the instructions depend on which direction you come from, IF you can fnd the roads they describe!! It was the carpark of a restaurant - at which we decided to eat - would've been far cheaper to pay to stay at the aire in Honfleur itself! An 'aire' is usually a carpark sometimes with facilities like electricity and water for which you put coins in a box.

At Bayeux we viewed the tapestry telling the story of the Battle of Hastings - very impressive, 70 metres long. Bayeaux was a lovely place to meander. Stayed in an aire = council carpark. Quite a few other vans there and was quite noisy - I like hearing church bells but not on the hour every hour all night!!

We spent a couple of days checking out the D-Day beaches. Longues-sur-Mer, the German batteries. One very damaged, apparently booby trapped, one very much still in tact, apparently manned by old soldiers or volunteers, who surrendered readily.Fields with poppy flowers among the crops, everywhere.

Then to Arromanches where they built Churchill's idea of a man made harbour - quite an amazing feat, and it worked. At Ouistreham we walked up 5 stories of a bunker which was surrendered to three men - the Germans inside didn't know that when they did it though.

Giverny was next - home to artist Claude Monet's famous house and garden. It had been raining in the night so some areas were cordoned off but you could still see it all. On the other side of the road was the famous 'Japanese bridge' with the water lilies, that he painted so often. We actually stayed the night in the carpark for free! They seem to encourage this as the man on the gate told us on arrival that we could. Learnt that my sister and brother-inlaw were in Paris and coming to Giverny next morning, so we decided to hang about and meet them and had a lovely lunch with them. They are in Europe for six months - or at least, away from home for 6 months. They had been to China on the way and Jenny had got an insect bite (they think) and it turned poisonous, so her leg was a bit of a mess though she said it was good compared to what it had been!

One thing we found with the van is that parking can be a problem because of it's size, and Chartres was no exception. No parking so we kept going! Stayed the night in one of the few places that wasn't an 'official' camping spot. Was just a carpark near a few businesses. When we arrived I went into one of them, a vet's, and asked if they thought it would be ok. The lady didn't understand but the kids did and they said ok! Woken early though with cyclists all around us, preparing for a race.

Next day was Versailles Palace. It was one of the hottest days and Versailles is enormous!! Someone had advised us to do the gardens first, then the Trianons then the palace. In hindsight (what a wonderful thing it is!) we should have done the palace first as by the time we got to that queue later in the day the queue was an hour and a half long - fortunately it ended up being only 50 minutes! When you see the opulence of the palace, the extent of the gardens and all the fountains and statues in them, it's no wonder the ordinary folk revolted and said 'to the guillotine with them' while they, the common folk, were starving!

We had booked a campsite southish of Paris for three nights next. But no-one spoke English! The guy who took our email booking was to be in the next day. We had found, up until this point, that it was fairly unusual not to have our halting French understood or to find someone who spoke English, so we just hunkered down and got on with it. We were about 10 minutes walk from the train station so next morning we hopped on train and into the centre of Paris. The metro in Paris is really easy to use and because we had a day ticket, thanks to the helpful man at the campsite station, we didn't have to keep buying a ticket every time we wanted to go on another line.

We headed for the Pere Lachaise cemetery - yes a cemetery!! Decided to have a bite of lunch first but all the cafes were busy or expensive - we just wanted a sandwich - something hard to find in Europe by the way! Anyway, looked at the menu in the window of a little corner Italian cafe and decided to have salad and lardons, which we deciphered was bacon bits. No other customers - is this a good or bad sign we wondered!!! We heard the little waiter clattering in the kitchen and didn't have to wait long before our plates came. Basically bacon bits and egg on top of salad dressed (I think) with balsamic dressing. It was delicious!! Then he talked Ken into a dessert - it came with two spoons! and IT was delicious........ I asked him the name but couldn't understand so got him to write it down - tirimasu! This place was a real hidden gem! We have since found lardons in the supermarket and I have made salad with lardons (but without the egg) a couple of times. In fact fried lardons tossed through anything is good!

As it turned out we'd been heading the wrong direction for the cemetery anyway, so back up the hill to the entrance. No maps so we had to try to commit to memory where the right 'streets' were. This is the place where many famous people are buried - Jim Morrison of The Doors (didn't see his grave though), Edith Piaff, Simone Signoret, Yves Montand, Moliere, La Fontaine, Chopin, Maria Callas (our guide told us she was 'barbequed'!), Marcel Marceau (mime artist), Oscar Wilde, Sarah Bernhardt, Isadora Duncan (dancer).

We didn't go with a guide - we were quite happily trudging around up hill and down dale when this guy started talking to us - have you seen this one or that. Come, I know a short cut!! So we actually saw quite a few more than we would've on our own but at the end he said, 'and now what are you going to pay me?' I've been doing this 27 years and I have wife and daughters at home to keep...... I thought - well you comandeered us mate - but Ken said pay him! It was an experience!

Back on the metro to Montmartre and Sacre Coeur. Battled our way through zillions of tourists and hopped on the cable car to the top. Into the church where there were some big black burly security guards in suits saying shush and no photos! Hmmm, red rag to a bull to be told that..... mangaged to get a couple (I justify myself in that I don't use flash, which is what they usually worry about). This same guard went up to a young mother carrying her toddler putting his finger to his lips and pointing to her child - poor woman, as if she could keep her child quiet if he decided to start being noisy!! Stupid man!! What would Jesus have to say about that I wonder!! Anyway, I was very disappointed in the church. Quite plain. Great views from outside the front door though! We walked around the Place du Tertre, the artists square - it was all artists and cafes. Walked down some steps and I recognised them!! I said to Ken that these are the steps that we had walked up when we first went to Paris 15 years ago. At that time we had stopped half way up, turned around and had our first view of the Eiffel Tower (can't see it for trees now) and when we'd got to the top and I'd looked sideways and had seen Sacre Coeur, but after walking up such steep steps and hundreds of them, I had been too exhausted to be impressed!

As we were walking back to the metro there were two REAL gendarmes. I went up and asked if I may take a photo and they put Ken in too. Ken looked quite small next to them!

The second day in Paris we walked to behind Notre Dame where there is the Deportation Memorial - today was closed, due to a special ceremony. Think the guard felt sorry for us though and fetched us a leaflet about it in English. Walked around the front of Notre Dame and you could hardly see it for people and heaps of construction, stages, buildings etc, apparently in preparation for the 850 year anniversary celebrations. Walked another block or two to Saint Chapelle - another long queue. The bottom floor was quite impressive but when we went up the stairs and came out on the second floor, it was WOW - the stained glass windows were amazing. Going around the room they tell the Bible in pictures.

Grabbed a sandwich - well, what they call a sandwich, it's really a filled roll, and walked to the Jardin du Tuilieres and sat and had a picnic. They have acres of beautiful green grass and most of it you're not allowed to go on! Went on a bit further to the Champs Elysees - and what do you know - can't walk along the side of it because they're putting up big stands - presumably for the 14th July Bastille Day celebrations. But at least I stood in the middle and took a photo!

On our way to find the metro to go home we saw a big truck backing out from one of the many tunnels around the city and lots of police so we watched to see what was happening - it seems he was too high to go under and the police were redirecting the traffic to allow him to back out - what a performance! We're not 100% sure of our height and have heart stopping moments whenever we approach tunnels or bridges!

Next day we drove to meet a work colleague of Phill, our son-in-law. He only lives 20 minutes down the road at Kaiapoi but here we are half way around the world going to meet him! Didier is French and spends half his year in France and half in NZ, and he was back at the moment as he father was not well. Had a very nice pot luck lunch with him, some of his and some of ours, and will have to meet him again as we left our good vegie knife with him! (Sad to say that since then Didier's Dad has died).

The next couple of nights we stayed at a 'proper' campsite in Epernay, Champagne country, because we were again meeting my sister and brother-in-law for Jenny's 65th birthday - she had wanted a champagne one. They had a rental car so they picked us up and we meandered around some of the local villages and had a lovely lunch at one of them. This village was the home of Dom Perignon. After a delicious dinner in the evening we bade Jenny and Ray farewell again.

Two days later was Ken's birthday. A little boulangerie van came around early so as well as a couple of mini baguettes I also bought a little patisserie which looked like a birthday cake. Just didn't have a candle!

The next few days we spent time at more cemeteries - war ones. So many roads have a green and white sign at the end saying Commonwealth War Graves - they're everywhere! So many lives.........we stopped at a few roadside ones and went to some bigger ones. Vimy - am enormous memorial to the Canadians, Le Quesnoy, a town rescued by New Zealanders 4 days before Armistace. They think NZers are the bees knees and even have a street named rue des All Blacks!! So many towns in Europe, especially France, are twinned with another town. I reckon Amberley should be twinned with Le Quesnoy - and have suggested such to our mayor, to be discussed upon our return!

Friday, 26 April 2013

Belfast

Ken should be writing this one! We visited the Titanic Exhibition Centre, left after about 4 hours but Ken could've stayed all day. Massive purpose built building. Made to be the height and bow shape of the Titanic. Five stories high!

We also toured the Guiness factory - seven stories high!! The interior of one of the buildings has been rebuilt into the shape of a Guiness pint glass and if it was filled, could hold 14.3 million pints!!

We toured the city on the hop on hop off bus. Part of the tour was driving up and down Shankhill and Falls roads, sites of 'The Troubles' and still very much divided.
Titanic's bow's figurehead

The Titanic Exhibition Centre Belfast

Belfast - no man's land

Guiness Storehouse, Belfast

Thursday, 25 April 2013

Miscellaneous tid bits......

At the Ulster Folk and Transport Museum near Belfast we saw the De Lorean car used in the 'Back to the Future' films.

Also here we learnt that 'in 1837 the code laid down that only single men were eligible to enlist in the police'. 'Marriage was not permitted until the policeman had served at least 7 years, by which time he should be able to support a wife'.
'In order to marry, a policeman had to obtain permission from his superiors, but this could be refused if his intended wife was thought to be unsuitable after she and her family were vetted'.
Some policemen chose to resign in order to marry. From 1943 women were allowed to join the police but had to resign if they wished to marry, this bar was only lifted in 1968.

In Belfast, the Parliament building, Stormount, is built of a beautiful white stone. In WW2 they had to coat it with manure and black tar to hide it from the air (Belfast was a prime target being a main port). They are still trying to remove the last remnants. It has 5 columns, for the provinces, 7 floors for each day of the week and is 365 feet long, days of the year.

Finding a parking space or a public toilet is a problem in Ireland - and if you can find either you'll be paying for the use of it!!

But having said all that - we loved Ireland!! And our wee VW Golf went like a dream - our new favourite car!

People were all so lovely and interesting and friendly. The hostess (elderly) in the pub in Cork (Reidy's Vault Bar) where I had lasagne which cost me £11!!! (about $20), had the habit of staying the same word of phrase over and over eg 'I know, I know, I know....' 'yes, yes, yes.....' 'no, no, no....' When we got back to Rosslare we found our young host Jonathon doing the same thing - hadn't noticed it that much elsewhere.
More in Northern Ireland than elsewhere, we found people saying 'wee' a lot - 'take a wee seat and I'll bring you a wee cup of tea in a wee minute'.

So many interesting and beautiful things and people........




I have an ancestor from Cahir, Tipperary, called Mary Condon. Imagine my surprise when I came upon a sign outside a pub saying that Mary Condon was the publican (and the funeral director!) We went in and met her - and lovely, she was! Going to do a bit more research when we get home about all that family.














This is the family motto and history that
Mary had in a frame in her pub.   
                                                                    















At the cliffs of Moher. Yes, it looks a brilliant sunny day - but as you can tell by the fact that we are so well rugged up, it was bitterly cold!!










One of the things I really wanted to do in Ireland was to witness a music 'session' - and here it is, and a good one it was. In Doolin at O'Connor's pub - they do good food too!



The De Lorean car used in 'Back To The Future' films                                                   



Wednesday, 24 April 2013

Irish B&Bs - the good, the bad, and the ugly........

We felt a bit like 'The Hotel Inspector' every time we walked into a new B&B!
At home B&Bs are like ours - you interact with the hosts in the evening, maybe even have breakfast with them. Over there, you are shown to your room, asked what time you'd like breakfast, if you're quick you can ask where to go for dinner and what's the wifi code, and then you're left to it.
Mostly this suited us as the evenings were spent on the internet trying to find the next night's accommodation!
I think the one that came the closet to perfect was at Brosnan's in Dingle.
In Carlow we had a VERY amorous couple through the wall!
In Cork we didn't even try the shower.
Doolin we had to write our breakfast order the night before, on a sheet of pad left in the lobby.
Some places were cold (heating on a timer), lots of toilets moved! some showers worked well, some didn't. Most were on at least the second floor and some were even higher! Usually up steep narrow stairs built hundreds of years ago and not made for hauling suitcases up! Ken built up such muscles carting our suitcase up and down.
We thought the worst B&B was Shandon Bells in Cork - looked lovely on the website - haha!! But when we got to Paddy's House B&B in Dublin we now thought Shandon Bells was beautiful!!
This was really the 'bad and the ugly' !!It really is a hostel not a B&B. All you got was a bed, another wobbly loo, dirty shower..... could use the kitchen if you could work around the filth. Website said breakfast snacks, fruit, all day tea and coffee available. When I asked about the breakfast snacks I was told, 'oh yeah, someone bought some croissants one day, hahah....'
When we visited Cornwell/Devon/Somerset area for 10 days we found the B&Bs were much the same as Ireland, but nothing as bad as Paddys!!
The breakfasts were usually FABULOUS - set us up for the day and we didn't eat again until our evening meal, which was often in a pub. the pub meals were so yummy and reasonably priced on the whole.
The full Irish breakfast consisted of egg, bacon, tomato, mushroom (sometimes) white pudding, sausage, (black pudding if you wanted). the first time we were served the white pudding we had to ask what it was. It is made of pork mince, breadcrumbs, herbs and spice - sooooo delicious. In Cornwell they call it hog's pudding.
Paddy's House Belfast - not much room!



Ballintoy B&B built 1737, our room the small top window






Gabriel, mine host, at the village of Saul
Paddy's Lazy Orchard, pub & B&B at Saul

The Port Rosslare Lodge

Inishross B&B, New Ross

Abbeyvale B&B, Holycross

The shower we didn't use,
Shandon Bells, Cork. Check out their
website www.shandonbells.com
False advertising??


The view as we approached our farmhouse
B&B on Sheepshead near Bantry

Doonmacfelim B&B Doolin
Our room upstairs 2nd from left

Ennislare House Bangor, our room the upstairs bay

Tuesday, 23 April 2013

Churches, abbeys and ruins aplenty

Well where can I begin (or rather, end) with so many beautiful churches, big and small, all with such beauty, simple or highly decorated and intricate.
St Aidan's in Enniscorthy (had to see that one for our namesake grandson!)
Adelaide Memorial Church at Myshall, built by a grieving husband for his wife and daughter. This is a tiny replica of Salisbury Cathedral.
St Canice's in Kilkenny (church and cathedral) Music practice going on so restricted viewing
Jerpoint Abbey ruins - Jim the guide made it so interesting
Holycross Abbey with it's bronze cast Stations of the Cross
Rock of Cashel - couldn't see lots because of restoration work
St Brendan's in Loughrea (3 baptisms happening)
St Finbarr's in Cork (a funeral happening)
St Anne's (had to go there!) where you can 'play' the bells. No NZ tunes so I had to play 'Waltzing Matilda'. I suggested to the receptionist they get 'Pokarekare ana' which she duly noted. Also here the seats had a fish carved into the backs.
St Nicholas in Galway
Rosscarberry, the smallest town to have a cathedral
Carrick-on-Shannon and the tiny Costello Chapel (16 feet long and 12 feet wide) built by Edward Costello for the remains of his wife Mary Josephine who died aged 47 in 1877. He was so heartbroken that he had her body placed in the care of the local Marist Sisters until 18 months later when the chapel was dedicated and then he had her remains interred here under a thick lid of specially made glass. At the dedication service a silver chalice (specially commissioned by Edward) was used for the mass and thereafter every first Friday in the month until Edward's death in 1891.
St Patrick's Church in a village called Saul! This was the site of St Patrick's first Christian church in Ireland. It is still used every Sunday. (we stayed in a B&B here run by a man called Gabriel!!)
Long Church in Derry, outside the walls (people praying so restricted viewing)
St Columb's Cathedral, inside the walls
Fabulous Dublin Cathedral where Jonathon Swift, the author of 'Gulliver's Travels', was Dean for many years and is buried here. (Apparently 'Gulliver's Travels' was written not as a children's book but as a political satire)
Such amazing history everywhere - and Ken read most of it!!

Adelaide Memorial Church, Myshall

Floor tiles, St Aidan's, Enniscorthy
Adelaide Memorial Church, Myshall





Rock of Cashel, Cashel

St Anne's, Cork. Chair backs

St Anne's, Cork. 'Playing' the bells

Costello Chapel, Carrick-on-Shannon

St Anne's Belfast. Stainless steel spire, exterior view

Stainless steel spire interior view

St Patrick's, Saul

Jonathon Swift memorial, Dublin Cathedral

Saturday, 20 April 2013

Ireland is green - so very green......

Lots of Ireland reminded us of home - the rolling hills and greenness of Southland, all made possible of course by ALL THAT RAIN!!!!
But I exaggerate - I must be Irish!!
We were very fortunate to have rain on only maybe three days, and then only a little and on two of them we were travelling so it didn't matter. The third lot we really got caught in it properly - going around the gardens at the National Horse Stud at Kildare - partly dried my legs off under a hand drier in the ladies washroom!
I even found a green letterbox!
Bur what we could never seem to get away from was the constant freezing wind. An elderly man told us it was a lazy wind - it goes through instead of around you!

Green posting box in Wexford



Friday, 22 March 2013

Ireland arrival

Friday 22nd March we ferried from Pembroke Dock (Wales) to Rosslare (Ireland). The weather had been bad - in fact the previous day's sailings had been cancelled, and we overheard one of the ferry dock workers saying he was pleased he wasn't going on the ferry! So understandably we were a little concerned as to how rough the sailing would be - but it was so ok that Ken slept most of the way!
On arrival at Rosslare we foot passengers were ferried to the terminal by bus. On the way we were stopped by the Garda (police) who checked all our passports. Ken and I were at the back and I asked, do we not get a stamp in our passports?
'Want a stamp?' says he.
'Yes please' said I
'How long are you staying? asked he.
'Three weeks' said I.
'Ok' said he, 'be back in a minute'.
Off the bus, into his office, and we waited, and waited, and waited......
I felt like disappearing into my seat, making a busload of people wait while the policeman tried to find his stamps.
We could see through the office windows he was obviously having trouble finding the stamps - looking in this cupboard and that drawer!!
Finally he came back with our passports beautifully stamped and stating that we had to be out of the country by 22nd April - a month.
When we left Pembroke Dock our passports were checked and then when we arrived in Ireland. Interestingly when we re-entered the UK nothing was checked - they obviously let anyone in!
I had emailed our B&B from the boat to let them know the boat was running late due to the weather but there to meet us was Jonathon and his trusty green mini car into which he managed to stuff us and our bags.
'Your website said 800 metres from the ferry' I said to Jonathon. 'Seems a very long 800 metres!' 'Well it is to the entry to the port' said Jonathon with a twinkle in his eye!
We were going to get well used to the Irish exaggerations over the next three weeks!!
That night we walked down to the local pub for dinner and Ken had his first taste of real Guinness - and he loved it!!
Rosslare Lodge
Our faithful wee VW Polo that we drove about 2500 miles (or was it kms??) around Ireland

The pub in Rosslare - yummy food

Thursday, 21 March 2013

Grrrrr......

After a VERY frustrating 2 days trying to get everything booked - and twice I've thrown my hands up, dissolved into tears and said, I wanna go home!!!! - tomorrow we're heading for Ireland. Hiring a car from here in Basingstoke to Pembroke, hopping on a ferry to Rosslare - we hope, because there was a problem with the booking! - arrive in Rosslare where we will be picked up by a mini cooper from the hotel where we are staying for the night, getting another hire car in the morning and tootling off round Ireland - where at the moment it is snowing!!  What fun!! (as Miranda's mother would say) slap, slap....
So Sleepy Dwarf won't be getting  sleep in tomorrow!!
When I finally get the hang of this thing I will post some pics and more ramblings.

Tuesday, 19 March 2013

Canada

Brrrr..... it's cold!!!!!!
Had 3 weeks with James Mark, Michelle, and the 3 wee boys. Mostly just blobbing out which was really nice after my pre-trip stressing. (for those in the know, my body has settled down, but I had to consult a Canadian GP).
Think we saw the sun twice, once, a sunday, was so nice. We went to Coles Bay and met up with some others and the kids had a ball! Rowan decided to have a mud bath after he had found a really big starfish and Grandpa had found a really pretty purple one.
Met Sarah our lavender friend from Whidbey Island and had a lovely lunch with her in Sidney. Also caught up with Alan, another lavender friend near to Sidney, and took Sarah to meet him.
Michelle and I had a day in Victoria while her car was being checked out.
Other days we took Aidan to Mr Tubbs, where you use tokens to wiin tickets and then 'cash them in' for 'prizes' (ie rubbishy toys). took Rowan to the butterfly farm. Not many about though because of the weather. Went to the boys school a couple of days too and some days Grandpa went and collected them.
Had such a treat - got taken to the Butchart Gardens by Alan and Beth. In doing my family history research I thought I had found Alan to be a relative of Ken's. As it turns out he possibly isn't but we still wanted to meet up with them. Alan had worked at the gardens for 30 years and so was able to take visitors free of charge. Being winter we didn't think there would be much to see, but it was surprising - the bare trees were rather lovely.

Aidan making a leaf tile at school


Grandpa & Rowan going to Coles Bay

Rowan and the starfish he found at Coles Bay

Rowan after a mud bath at Coles Bay!

Grandpa with the boys

Friday, 22 February 2013

Ready & raring to go...... I think!!!

Bags all packed and off we go. First stop Auckland to visit with #2 son and family.
Went to see the gymnasts from China at Sky City then to join the hordes at Albert Park to view all the gorgeous Chinese new year decorations.

Bye bye Christchurch - see you next year!
Was fun to watch Arielle doing her gym and to see how well Claudia is looking.

"Our bags are packed, we're ready to go...."






Arielle and Claudia
Meet Arthur B. Burke - he's going places!!









Olympic gymnast in the makiing


Sunday night it was off to Vancouver for 3 weeks with #1 son.
Don't try this at home!!!